![]() :) if you're up to the task of bedding, you can surely do this. The blank this creates is then machined until it’s in the shape of a rifle stock. Made from layers of wood glued together under heat and pressure, it has the color stained in before the lamination process. After it hardens, remove whatever excess you have with a dremel and you're good to go. Boyds Pro Varmint Stock for the Ruger 10/22 Takedown Laminated construction Like most of Boyds stocks the Pro Varmint is a laminate. Heck, pour the crap in there about 1/3 the way up, let it set a little, then add your screws and staples and fill it up with the Acraglass. Boyds Pro Varmint Rifle Stock Howa 1500 Short Action Heavy Barrel Channel Laminated Wood Green Textured Product : 117329 Manufacturer : 999022 List Price: 226.00 Our Price: 219. When you are done, no one will ever see it, even if you remove the stock. I think I also put some heavy duty staples that were folded in on the ends around the rear action screw below the relief cut in the top of the rear pillar. All you have to do is tie it all together with the screws. Or, put one on both sides of the front pillar. Put one 1/3 of the way down, across the laminates, on the muzzle side of the rear action screw pillar, and another on the butt side of the front action screw pillar. ![]() I liked how the grooves were cut deep for lots of "grab" and, that's what I saw laying on the floor under my chair when I decided to do it. Best of both worlds.įor the reinforcement screws, I cut the heads off of dry wall screws. Later, if you want, you can do some light relieving of the Acraglass and do a skim coat with Devcon 10110. (I learned that while "fixing" my Tacticool) Just relieve more than a little all around and use Acraglass for your bedding. However, it's a little hard and brittle for stock repair. And who wants one any thicker than what it is already? :) Now, if you don't bed and pillar it, I would agree, it isn't the stock for you, but I don't think anyone could make a wood stock that slim that would not crack. You could make one out of Styrofoam and tissue paper and it would be fine after bedding it if you do as I suggest. The strength of the stock material in that area is irrelevant. When bedding, just cut/relieve the wood back a little more than usual, mix up some extra epoxy and add the screw. In fact, that would be the case no matter what the product. Thanks again.I hear ya, but the fact that you plan to bed and pillar means you already consider the stock "unfinished" when you get it. Chances are it will function flawlessly for years to come. Simply hoping I can do as planned, and go shooting, without the extra "repair" work. Perhaps I expect too much from $109 product. I'm not dismissing your suggestion because I really appreciate your time. I, myself, never have, and am not enamored at all with the idea of "repairing", in advance, another company's brand new product. ![]() Foxx, obviously you've done this kind of thing a lot, and have experience which bolsters confidence. ![]()
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